Window door trim installation

In most cases the trim frame approach is only possible because of either biscuit joinery or pocket screw joinery. Biscuits are ovals of compressed, manufactured hardwood that fit into slots cut with a hand-held power tool.

I use 20 biscuits for most trim frames, though the smaller 10 size is also useful. You can also pre-join pieces of trim into frames with pocket screws. This is faster and neater than biscuits, but not as strong. The easiest trim for making into frames is flat, wide casings that have no profile. This is the basis for traditional, extra-wide trim and moulding designs, with smaller trim and molding elements added afterwards piece-by-piece to enhance the look.

A sheet of plywood or particleboard on sawhorses makes a perfect jobsite workbench, and you only need to leave the joints clamped for 10 minutes before carefully taking the frame out, setting it aside to dry completely, then assembling another frame with the same clamps. Since door frames only have three sides, temporarily fasten a brace to the back of the trim frame at the bottom for temporary support. A few 2-inch long, gauge pins every foot or so holds the frame nicely and invisibly.

If you want to use even fewer fasteners, daub construction adhesive on the back of the trim frame before it goes down. The pins just hold the frames temporarily while the adhesive dries. The results are great.

Assemble the mitre joints with glue, aligning the surface profile perfectly. Swab glue in the slots, add biscuits, then trim off the excess biscuits after the glue is dry. The further along you progress on a building project, the slower and more finicky the work gets.

Window trim and moulding installation proves it for sure. Putting up trim demands that you get pretty close to that challenge. How to install door trim Before you purchase door trim, examine the space around the frame. Hold the door casing in place over the reveal.

Leave sufficient space at the bottom for carpet, tile, or baseboards. Repeat the process on the other side of the door, and the header piece. Move to the miter saw, and carefully cut the door trim to a degree angle. Pre-fit the pieces together. Prep the adhesive.

When working with a thin strip of trim, cut the applicator to extrude a smaller bead size to avoid seepage. Run a thin bead line along the length of the casing. Keep the bead roughly two inches from the edge to prevent seepage.

Press the casing into position and hold in place. Again ensuring it is placed in the center, making sure your overhang is equal on each side. After your last trim piece is up your window will look like this. You may also notice in the picture I finished installing my baseboards to complete the look. After all of the trim is put up, you are ready for wood filler, caulk, and paint. After filling my nail holes with wood filler and caulking where the MDF meets the wall, all of the gaps and imperfections start to disappear and the trim began to look more finished.

I then finished with paint. I chose the same color as the rest of my trim, Calico Cream. Here is how it came out! I feel so accomplished finishing this door trim in my sunroom and it is such a rewarding feeling doing it on your own! I was initially intimated by this project, but I am here to tell you that you can do it if you follow these simple steps. And, if you do this door trim be sure to tag me, I would love to check it out! Thanks for reading! Excellent job. I have a similar situation.

Thanks for a better solution than I had proposed. Decorative but subtle. Almost mission style; simple but substantially significant. Enjoyed the project? Published January 6th, AM. William 7 days ago. Barbara Bullard 5 days ago. Sign Up to Comment.

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